Day 323: Cluanie Inn to Invergarry

Best bits: climbing into bed at the end of the day 

Worst bits: complete exhaustion

Distance: 22 miles

After saying a quick goodbye to everyone, I jumped in Priscilla and drove back to the Cluanie Inn. Phil and Steve followed me there and then Steve took over driving Priscilla to my endpoint at Invergarry.

It was cold and windy when I set off and the skies were dark. It was to be another long day of walking along busy roads. At least I could see more of the scenery today than yesterday.

Today however I was self-sufficient as I was on my own and I had a flask of tea and a bottle of orange juice and my pockets were bulging with food.

The root surface was good for cars and other vehicles, but still didn’t have any pavement. I was still jumping in and out of the roadside all day. Unfortunately, I saw a little red squirrel on the side of the road that had not been as successful in avoiding the traffic. After about 3 miles, I came to the start of Loch Cluanie where I had a fabulous view down the Glen.

By the time I reached the end of the loch at around 8 miles I was desperate for a wee. There was nowhere to hide on the exposed road and I was glad when I spotted the dam as it had a little side road going towards it. I popped in there and also found a style where I could sit and have a refreshment break.

The weather was picking up a little and the autumnal colours became brighter in the sunlight.

Once the road turned off towards Invergarry, it was the start of a rather steep uphill climb around Loch Loyne. Unfortunately, the wind picked up and I was walking directly into it which always makes for a harder and energy sapping ascent.

Around the 13 mile point, I spotted a little bench down at short hill. I decided that would make a good lunch stop. It was also out of the wind for a while which was great. Not long after this I arrived at the summit which gave way to fantastic views down the Glen. I thought that this little cairn resembled a rabbit.

At last a reprieve and some downhill walking towards Loch Garry. It felt warmer going downhill and the glen sheltered me from the wind. This was my first proper view of Loch Garry, which I would spend the rest of the afternoon walking alongside. I did however spot a number of very large deer running through the trees. They were far too far away to take a photograph of, but they were very majestic as they ran along together.

All of a sudden, a huge aircraft appeared in front of me. It was a massive Nimrod. I was a little slow to get my camera out and so it doesn’t appear quite as large in this photograph but it was flying very very low and was extremely noisy.

By this time I had started to get very tired due to the accumulation of mileage over this week and of course the 20 miles yesterday. I took one more refreshment break at 19 miles electing to sit on the crash barrier by the side of the road. I was also really desperate for another wee and so when I thought the traffic had quietened down I just went for it. Just as I was coming towards the end of my flow, a car went past and the people looked at me with horror. When you’ve got to go, you’ve got to go!

I summoned up all my strength and energy and dragged my weary body along the roadside for the last 3 miles before finally arriving at Invergarry where Priscilla was parked.

It’s at these times when I’m feeling really weary and depleted that I start getting emotional. I was thinking about the fact that I had been alone all day today and most of yesterday. I was really missing Angela and suddenly realised that I am on my own and I am potentially going to be on my own for a very long time. If I live until I am 82, the same age my mum is now, then that’s 20 years!

Once in Priscilla I debated climbing into bed and resting, but decided that I might not get back up again. So I changed my shoes and drove the 15 minute journey to the Loch Ness campsite at Fort Augustus.

When I arrived, Pam, the owner was there to greet me and we had a lovely little chat about my trek. Her sister was a cancer survivor and had been treated at the Beatson and so she gave me a generous donation.

After a hearty meal of egg and beans on toast and several cups of tea I literally crawled into bed and stayed there for the rest of the evening as I was absolutely exhausted. 

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