Day 294: John O’Groats to Dunnet

Best bits: ice cream

Worst bits: having a cold and feeling cold

Distance: 20.1 miles

After breakfast, we returned to John O’Groats where it was much quieter than yesterday afternoon. I did a repeat performance of the strip tease with charity shirts which I found very enjoyable but very cold. It was worse because I’m just starting with the first cold of my journey. However it didn’t stop me jumping for joy.

The words on this sign were very appropriate ‘Every mile a memory, Every step a story’

Janet walked with me for the first 6 miles this morning along the road.

We saw a horse a goat and a sheep in a field following each other it seemed a very unlikely combination but seem to work.

Our first stop point happened to be at the campsite where Lynn and Harb were waiting with tea and sandwiches. After lunch Lynn, Harb and Janet went on their way to visit some gardens while I walked. There were many large stones alongside the road. They looked like tombstones! Janet thought that they might be to prevent snow drifts in the winter.

The route was mainly walking along some back roads and after another 5 miles or so a familiar van drew up alongside me. It was time for more tea and sandwiches and then Lynn joined me for the next 4 miles.

It was all too much for Chip after a burst of activity and escaping from the van.

The walk up to Dunnet Head was a gradual uphill all the way to the viewpoint and the lighthouse at the top. Dunnet Head is the most northerly point in mainland Britain.

We were delighted to see that there was an ice cream van in the car park and so we headed straight for it. Mick served us and gave me my ice cream for free. He had to put his glasses on to make sense of what I was doing when we showed him the map. What a lovely guy. On my way back down the hill he came past me in his van, he stopped and gave me two packets of sweets and then put his music on as he continued along the road. What great fun.

While we were at the top, we had fantastic views back towards John O’Groats and we got the map out to see that in the distance we could see Cape Wrath the eastern edge of which will be the furthest I will walk along the north coast.

The hillside here is very boggy with heather, peat ditches lots of water and cotton plants. I decided to continue along the road and retrace my steps rather than cut across country.

On the way today, I had seen two signs that said North Coast Trail. It’s in the very early stages of being established and there is nothing indicated on OS Maps and very little on the website.

I finally arrived in Dunnet where everyone was waiting for me in the pub. Half a Guinness later we were travelling back to the campsite for pink pasta and feta followed by fruit salad and yogurt. I had a quick shower before climbing into bed.

The campsite we were on today didn’t have toilets and as I went for my morning pee in Priscilla I had an unexpected item left in my baggage area!!! That was a first. I better be more prepared tomorrow!

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