Day 288: Helmsdale to Dunbeath

Best bits: beautiful scenery, meeting Janette and Vince

Worst bits: flies, ticks and feeling weary

Distance: 17.3 miles

It was an even earlier start this morning. I had to leave Priscilla at 7:20 to walk to the bus stop. I arrived at Helmsdale just after eight. It was a very calm morning the sea was very still. The sun was trying to shine through the clouds giving that strange look where the sun’s rays burst through the clouds.

Someone had made a great effort in modifying a bollard into a lighthouse.

I shared the path with some sheep for a while it was as though they were leading the way. After a while they got bored and tried to push themselves unsuccessfully through a wire fence.

It’s lovely to see the heather on the hills looking resplendent in that typical purple colour. And then all of a sudden I was amongst it and then through dense bracken. This was the way today went.

After a steep descent, then crossing a wobbly bridge followed by a sharp uphill section I was sweating. There were lots of fences and walls to cross today.

I could see right across the North Sea probably to the point where we were working out what we could see in the distance from Macduff.

I was soon on the Ord the natural and long-established boundary between Caithness and Suorland. The remains of a Broch, a prehistoric house excavated in 1891 were visible.

I took the opportunity to sit down at the monument and then passed some of the former houses of those removed during the highland clearings.

A final look back at where I had come from.

The going was tough and the ground became very boggy. Finally I could see Berriedale my lunch stop for today at the River Bothy cafe.

After lunch I crossed wobbly suspension bridge then went straight up the hill back onto the cliffs. I had a great view behind me where I come from this morning.

On many occasions today the path was dangerously close to the edge of the cliff. Sometimes a little too close for comfort with me hanging onto the fence.

At one point there was a very steep descent but fortunately they were a series of steps cut into the ground, however, they were probably some of the steepest that I’ve walked down so far. At the bottom I crossed over a little bridge and then it was straight back up the other side. I was glad that I had brought my walking pole with me as I used it most of the day.

At last a bench when I needed it and I took the opportunity to refuel at this viewpoint.

I was faced with this wall to cross. Try as I might I couldn’t get my leg up and over the wall even with the built in stone step and so I had to resort to climbing through the gap on my hands and knees!

Black flies were everywhere this afternoon, in my hair, my ears, up my nose and in my mouth and even in my eyes. What a nuisance. Also there were lots of ticks landing on me every time I went through bracken. I had to stop and do a tick check on a regular basis and flick the wee things off before they got chance to attach themselves to me,

There were also a lot of grouse which wait until you are almost standing on them before they decide to fly away. They give me a shock every time.

There were so many stacks and arches on this section and views from the path right at the edge of the cliff.

Eventually I came down off the cliffs and onto a path through dense woodland. By now I was dragging my feet and feeling very weary.

At long last I came down the final cliffs and across a little bridge over the river to arrive at Priscilla in Dunbeath harbour. She is a little speck in this photo.

After a lay down and a cup of tea followed by a quick shower I drove to Janette and Vince’s house where they had a drink and dinner ready for me. We had a long natter over a glass or two of wine. Then completely exhausted I retired to bed. Too tired to write this blog, sorry folks.

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