Day 283: Nigg Ferry to Portmahomack

Best bits: tasting the fresh plums

Worst bits: feeling exhausted physically and mentally

Distance: 17.1 miles

It was about a 20 minute drive down to the Nigg Ferry terminal where we could see Cromarty, the finish point of yesterday’s walk just over the water. It was quite breezy, cool and overcast. At least the wind had died down from yesterday’s 40 mph gusts. I was glad I had put on my waterproof jacket.

I had just set off when I met Paddy and her dog. Paddy was a breast cancer survivor and she told me about her family. Her little dog was gorgeous and very friendly, but then we both had to be on our way.

I took a last look at the rigs and the newly constructed hangers for wind turbines and undersea cables.

As I walked along a road into the small hamlet of Nigg a highly pregnant lady was standing by the side of the road with a bucket in hand collecting plums from her hedge before her husband cut it. We had a nice chat and she offered me some of the plums which were really sweet and tasty and only about the size of a cherry.

The farmers have been very busy here harvesting their crops. I loved seeing the hay bales drying in the fields today and there were lots of them.

This is red kite country and I’ve seen quite a few flying overhead today. One flew quite close by and then floated on the thermals looking very majestic. I imagined Angela being a kite just floating around in the air looking at things and then swooping down and back up again, it made me smile to think of that.

The OS map indicated a disused airfield but a little plane flew over and landed on it. There were other planes and hangers and orange wind socks were flying along with the saltire. There were also remnants from the war where a rusty old hanger has collapsed in on itself next to several concrete buildings that are now in a state of complete disrepair.

Finally, I turned off the main road to Shandwick to meet Janet. And finally I could see the sea again.

As I walked down the road there appeared to be a large stone of some description in a glass box. I had to go and investigate. It’s obviously of some importance because it’s like it has its own private museum. I took a photo with me reflected in the glass and it looks like I am a ghost.

I spotted Janet parked up with her towel flapping in the breeze in the car door. She had been for a swim at this lovely beach. We had our sandwiches but were plagued by wasps. I spotted this sign for the path of good health.

After lunch I walked around the bay and got a good view looking backwards.

Janet walked with me into Balintore where I saw the couple from London who had flown into that little airport from Col for lunch.

After walking on the road for a while the route became a grassy path. Unfortunately this didn’t last long as the grass turned to pebbles that were too small to put your whole foot on and too large to just walk straight through. They were ankle breakers so the going was slow. Then I came to a section which was fenced off and the only way across was to go over a rocky outcrop. My hips were stiff, my shoulder painful and legs were weak and it took me all my remaining energy to pull myself up and over. After a while I was ready for a sit down and refuelling. There was a large rock at the side of this small building.

I dragged myself to my feet once more and set off again. I’m feeling very depleted again today and it’s affecting my mood. I was literally plodding along without much enthusiasm. I was glad when after 15 miles I finally reached Rockfield. this was a small but gorgeous little hamlet complete with a small harbour.

I now was faced with a choice 3 miles to the lighthouse at Tarbert Ness back along the pebbly paths and shore beneath the cliff or 2 miles to pub at Portmahomack.

Which would you choose? Of course I went to the pub where I had a quick drink whilst I waited for Janet who had gone to the lighthouse (by car).

There was a strange water fountain there. Apparently this east coast town faces west.

Once back at Priscilla I had to get into bed and rest. Janet made dinner and we watched the movie NYAD about an ultra marathon swimmer. Janet is a cold water swimmer too and has attempted the channel and swum the length of Loch Lomond and many other achievements.