Day 249: Berwick to St Abbs (border crossing)

Best bits: passing £40,000 in donations, crossing the border into Scotland

Worst bits: delayed start

Distance: 11.4 miles

This morning I would be crossing the border into Scotland marking the end of the coastline of England and previously that of Wales. We dined at McDonald’s for our breakfast. Then we travelled back into Berwick where I had an interview by phone. We were supposed to be meeting the photographer on the Ramparts at Berwick, but there had been a mixup. So instead, we decided to meet her at the welcome to Scotland sign on the A1. We had lots of photographs here which entertained Heather and Janette seeing me walking backwards and forwards and posing.

We then drove back down the A1 a short while to rejoin the coastal path on the England side. More photographs there before I could set off for the day. It was after 11.30 am before I got started properly. Almost immediately I was crossing the border for real this time.

The scenery became very dramatic. Red sandstone cliffs were contrasting against the deep blue of the sea and the sharp white waves. The path followed alongside the railway for most of the day.

I was excited and apprehensive all at the same time about crossing into Scotland. Fortunately today the sun was shining with a blue sky and pretty fluffy clouds.

Butterflies were flitting past intermittently along with a few bees. Today I brought my walking pole with me because on examining the OS map yesterday it looked like I had to descend and ascend a number of steep cliffs.

There were a lot of undulations on today’s path and a very steep descent into the little village and quaint working harbour of Burnmouth.

This colourful line of 3 storey houses, numbers 14-20 in Lower Burnmouth, were designed by the architect Basil Spence in the 1950s and are category B listed buildings. The lower floors were intended to be net stores but now serve as garages.

Here I saw the first memorials to the disaster of 14th October 1881 when 5 boats and 24 Burnmouth men were lost at sea and 9 widows and 12 children who were left.

It was a very steep ascent to leave Burnmouth, but it gave away to spectacular views. This is looking back at the Harbour.

It was then a long walk along the cliff tops before I would finally arrive in Eyemouth.

The “Widows and Bairns” memorial in Eyemouth is quite a dramatic piece. The fishing disaster was centered here, with 129 of the 189 men who died from the town.

After a quick lunch with Heather and Janette, it was time to get back on my way. I passed through a number of coves including this one with fishing ropes stranded on the shore. 

Coldingham bay was a busy little beach with people surfing and swimming. A lifeguard was on duty and looked ready to dive in. This dog was sitting patiently on the beach waiting for its owner, it looks so cute it made me smile. 

Heather and Janette were waiting for me in Saint Abbs Harbour. The harbour is at the bottom of a very steep road which I had already limped down. They were very taken by the rock formations and stacks.

We drove back to Berwick to collect Priscilla. Then Janette went on ahead to book into our accommodation whilst Heather and I revisited the welcome to Scotland sign because I had forgotten to do my dance this morning. Here I am doing a ‘Yee-haw’

The heavens then opened with torrential rain, fortunately we were still in Priscilla. When Heather and I arrived at our lodge, Janette had been busy decorating to welcome me back to Scotland. It was made even better when we checked the donations as it had gone past the £40,000 mark. A massive thank you to everyone who has donated.

After a quick shower, we walked up what turned out to be a very steep hill to the on-site bar and restaurant. I really enjoyed the pint of Corona. After some food it was time to go back down the hill to the lodge. I was so tired I had to go straight to bed. I didn’t even have the energy to write this blog.

One response to “Day 249: Berwick to St Abbs (border crossing)”

  1. Welcome Home Tracey. 😎

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