Day 232: Runswick Bay to Saltburn-on-Sea

Best bits: reunited with family

Worst bits: the heat, missing Angela in family get together

Distance: 13 miles

It was scorching hot when I woke up this morning. As I jumped out the van to go to Rhoda’s van for breakfast, a man was telling Steve that someone had egged all of our vans in the lay-by where we were staying overnight. None of us heard anything which is probably just as well. That’s the first incident I’ve had.

It was 20° when Steve dropped me off at Runswick Bay. Fortunately today I didn’t have to go back down the steep hill to the beach as the Cleveland Way cuts off along the top of the cliffs. I was glad of a little breeze but I was already sweating at 9:30 am.

I had plenty of fluids with me, but the first squirt I did hit me right in the back of the throat and I went into a massive coughing fit. It took quite a while to recover from that.

The sea was looking very calm and flat again and there were just a few little boats out on the water. I looked back at where I’d come from yesterday.

I was going to try and meet up with Deborah and Jeremy this afternoon, as they were due to return from holiday yesterday but unfortunately they had to alter their travel arrangements due to Jennifer being unwell. So I won’t get to see them this time.

I met a man who told me he lost his sister and father last year, both to cancer. He told me that it was different kind of grieving for each of them which is interesting. He said walking and being outdoors has been good for his mental health and yesterday he saw some dolphins and last week some Minky whales which really pleased him.

The “Bait Bench” sculpture at Boulby Mine depicts a space where miners would take their meals and have meetings

Staithes was my next stop. Some young couples were going to take a selfie looking down onto Staithes. I offered to take a picture for them. As we got chatting one of them had cycled round the world for four years what an amazing feat. We spoke about the kindness of strangers which he had also experienced. I wish I’d had more time to chat about his trip. It would’ve been fascinating.

Staithes is so beautiful from afar like in this photo and also up close. I popped into the Cod and Lobster for a cuppa and chatted to the staff and customers. I stayed there far longer than I should have but the conversation was good.

On my way out of Staithes I chatted to Barbara, Janet and Diane, three sisters from Leeds. They became emotional and so we had several hugs.

Three young women were doing a short stretch of the Cleveland Way. They were friends from uni. They have been camping so big respect.

Today I’ve met people from Nottingham, Northern Ireland, York, Middlesbrough, Leeds, Manchester, North Alton, Southport, Holland, London, South Shields and someone who knew Tom Daly’s dad. One thing everybody has been in agreement with is that it’s absolutely scorching. Unlike many of the people I have met, I’m not carrying a big rucksack, thank goodness.

The farmer had been cutting the hay in a large field and was busy aerating it. Swarms of flies surrounded me as they had been disturbed. That would’ve been Steve’s worst nightmare.

At long last I got in a few miles at a reasonable speed as there was no one to chat to. I was really going slowly because I was talking to so many interesting people and it was very hot. I knew I wasn’t going to get to my end point of Saltburn before late afternoon.

There were many examples of coastal erosion and this was interesting as the path was very close to the overhang.

The heat was at its peak as I arrived in Skinningrove. I had to descend from the cliffs to the beach and then back up again. At this point, I felt like I was melting. 

Shortly after this, there was a sculpture known locally as the charm bracelet made from scraps found at the local steel works.

The next section was spent walking alongside the railway track. Thankfully it became overcast and the wind picked up a little and cooled me down.

From the highest point on the cliffs, the views opened up. Roseberry Topping just appeared into view. This was something we saw every day for the seven years that we lived in Great Ayton. I was sorely tempted to take a climb up it this afternoon, but the heat proved too much.

The industrial might of Middlesbrough was straight ahead and will be something that I will walk through next week.

Eventually, I started my descent into Saltburn however it seemed to take quite a while to get there.

I was very hot by the time I got there and desperate for a drink.

Rhoda and Steve had parked Priscilla there ready for me to collect. Saltburn is a very hilly place and I dragged my feet through the park and ornamental gardens and up the steep hill at the other side.

I arrived at Priscilla and proceeded to have several drinks to rehydrate myself before I drove to Rhoda and Steve’s house. When I arrived Steve very kindly washed Priscilla removing all of the egg debris from today and also the road grime from the past few months. Bless him, he even cleaned the roof.

Meanwhile, I was having a very long soak and stretch in the bath.

Danny and Sara arrived from Glasgow and we went round to see Penny, Phil and Kim and where Jade, Katie, Ella and Alfie had just arrived.

It was nice to have a quick catch up with the family before the main event tomorrow. I was enjoying being with everyone but also conscious of really missing Angela in this situation.

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