Day 53: Pistyll to Porthor (Whistling sands)

I got dropped off about a mile down the road from where I got picked up yesterday. It was easier to rejoin the path there. The weather was much calmer today and started fine. I was soon warm due to some steep short climbs. 

I could see the familiar shore of Nefyn and the Morfa Nefyn where we had spent many summers days with the boys. However, as I started to cross the golf course the rain started. 

The rest of the day proved very wet and miserable! I was soaked through but my kit kept me warm.

There was so much mud, of the very slippery variety and churned up by cattle or sheep and I had to pick my way through it which was very time consuming. Thank goodness for my waterproof socks which has been an absolute game changer in keeping my feet dry and warm even when my boots became submerged in mud and bogs.

I didn’t take many photos today as it was so wet and I didn’t want a repeat performance with my phone. Also I spent most of the day with my head down into the wind and rain which made my neck sore. I was mindful that I had to keep stretching every so often.

Initially the day involved walking on the clifftops looking down on the sandy beaches of Nefyn.

But this soon changed to dark craggy foreboding, almost menacing rocks.

A highlight of today was seeing loads of seals basking in a beach. Unfortunately my presence startled some of them and they launched themselves into the sea.

There were many inlets that I had to walk around and often walk down to sea level and climb back up the other side.

On one occasion the path took me right down onto the beach and across the beach while the tide was coming in! I had flash backs to almost getting cut off by the tide in Scotland. I was relieved when I saw some steps climbing back up.

There were so many of these ‘false inlets’, like false summits on Munros! I got a bit disheartened as I didn’t feel like I was making much progress.

Lunch finally came at a nice cafe Jackie had recommended Cwt Tatws in Porth Towyn. It had a log burner and I took the opportunity to dry my outer clothes on the fire guard. It felt like a little oasis in a very wet day!

Today was all about mud, mud and mud, on clifftops with coastal erosion! I had to pick my way through the very slippery mud. Sometimes holding onto the wire fence for support.

Then the sun began to set and the light began to fade. Panic started as I still had a long way to walk along the clifftops looking down edges before I could get to safety. I picked up the pace, running when I could but it was always chasing the last of the light.

Alex was trying to get to me but there were no getting off points. Neither of us had good consistent phone signals. When Alex finally got through to me I was crossing a cliff collapse and couldn’t talk as I was concentrating. Then neither of us had a signal. I had to keep going. It went dark!

Fortunately, I had my head torch and other devices but it was still adrenaline spiking walking on the edge of a cliff in the dark. Finally I made it onto a safer path and phone signals returned. Alex was flashing his headlights and me my head torch like a rendezvous in a spy movie! I had asked him to bring bin bags for my wet clothes and boots, sliders for my feet and a towel to dry myself. I stripped off my wet stuff and jumped in the car. What an absolutely exhausting day!

Best bits: seals and cafe

Worst bits: mud, walking on the cliffs in the dark

Distance: 19.3 miles

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